Macaron & Mayhem Guide: Marfa, TX

Keep in mind Marfa is a tiny town of just a few thousand people. Some locals I spoke to made mention that travel magazines have overly written up the town to be larger than it is and I’d have to agree. Still, a lovely trip, but here are a few tips to keep you on the right path in Marfa.

  • Bring a friend! – Marfa was an odd solo trip. A couple nice restaurants, beautiful stars to see, and a handful of dive bars/saloons that I was a little intimidated to visit alone. I feel like Marfa would be better with a friend.
  • Many businesses are closed January-March – Marfa has a low season! Who knew. I think I went to four closed restaurants during a two day trip.
  • If you want pizza. Order it in advance, like days in advance, (really) or be prepared to wait for hour(s).
  • Don’t count on much for breakfast or lunch – bring snacks.
  • If you want to stargaze in a a hot tub at El Cosmico, reserve in advance. There are only three.
  • It’s cold at night and hot during the day – wear layers and bring a hat, even if you don’t wear hats.
  • Bring a flashlight – it’s one of the darkest areas of the country. I used mine both nights.
  • The train noise isn’t nearly as bad as people say. If you have ever lived in a city, this is nothing.

MACARONS

Not much! Would highly recommend buying snacks and sweets in advance of your trip and bringing them with you. While there are a few good restaurants in Marfa, it was shocking how much was missing or closed. Here’s what was open for sweets in Marfa in February:

  • Dairy Queen: central to town.
  • The Get Go: small grocery in the middle of town with a little bit of everything. Don’t expect service. No one even uttered hello to me as I perused the aisles.

MAYHEM

Ranch Water at L’Aventure
  • Bar Saint George: Slow service, but good drinks and snacks. Daily happy hour.
  • L’Aventure: the restaurant’s bar at Hotel Saint George. Different menu and seeing the food will make you want to eat here.

NOSH

Pho at Cochineal
  • Cochineal: Delicious food in a rotating menu. Great service. Charming courtyard with heaters and fire pit.
  • Stellina: Quaint, busy. The place everyone will recommend. Good small plates and wine with reasonable prices.
  • Do Your Thing: Pricey and small, but great coffee and snacks like avocado toast in this one-man staffed shop.
  • Pizza Foundation: Was not able to eat here due to the long wait. Pizza looked and smelled great. Open just a couple days a week, this place takes orders days in advance.

SNOOZE

The concierge mobile at El Cosmico.
  • El Cosmico: Liz Lambert’s modern campground in Far West Texas. Absolutely incredible. Make sure to stay here at least a night (shower the next night) and book a Dutch tub in plenty of advance of your trip.
  • Hotel Saint George: boutique hotel in the center of town with a restaurant and Marfa Book Store. Nice amenities.

SEE

  • Marfa Book Co: Wonderful shop in the the Saint George Hotel. More than just books – local good and extensive artwork selection.
  • Communitie Marfa: Shop of curiosities – like crystals and local goods. Packable Stetson hats!
  • Chinati Foundation: Make sure you read the website thoroughly before arriving. Certain exhibits are only certain hours/days. Sunrise tours are also offered and would have been a great experience.
  • Ayn Foundation: Two small galleries. I caught a free Warhol exhibit while visiting Marfa.
  • Prada Marfa: On Google Maps. Just a 20-30 minute drive from town.
  • Shooting Stars: Look up! The universe is so incredible here and the expansive sky will make you feel small and glad you visited.

Thoughts?

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